He Said It 'Looked Like Me,' Now I Own Six
How a Valentine's Day watch turned into a full-blown microbrand obsession -- and why women are the watch world's best-kept secret
Independent watches are booming, the crowds are mostly men & I’m here for all of it
Our last trip to New York wasn’t the walking, shopping, and people watching I expected. I don’t even think I ate a pretzel on the street. Instead, I stood in a line of 15,000 people snaking along a full city block off 5th Ave, looking up at the Empire State Building. It was impossible to miss us, hugging our spot in line.
“What’s everyone waiting for,” those passing by would roll down the window of their SUV and stop to ask. When I told them the truth, a look of bewilderment would fill their face, they’d shake their heads to ease their confusion and roll up the window as they drove away.
So I switched gears.
“Taylor Swift,” I’d say, always garnering an excited response.
Three different days we did this, bouncing about trying to keep warm in the brisk weather. The community bloomed in the cold: comradery and conversation, bonding over a shared passion for independent watch brands.
We were all there waiting to touch and try on watches from 150 different independent brands, many of which you could otherwise only ogle online.
The Slippery Slope I Did Not See Coming
Mind you, none of this was my doing! My partner lured me into this habit-forming addiction. We were in town to see My Morning Jacket in concert. He sucked me in to also go to the Windup Watch Fair three days in a row, in a city where there is no shortage of incredible things to do and see. It wasn’t the plan.
It was like a giant straw, sucking away my sanity. I surprised myself, and my partner. Each day I got more excited. I met colorways I wasn’t aware of and brand owners who shared how they were gearing up the business.
It was a chance to get some time with watches, inspect it up-close, and grab some wrist shots to really see how it looked perched on the end of my arm. And I did what I insisted I wouldn’t: I bought two more watches. A Mr. Jones Watches limited edition specifically for the show, and the Rosenbusch Horizon in denim.
My morphing into a real watch person became obvious earlier this month as we prepared for what would be the third watch show of my life.
“What have I done,” my partner muttered, deciding to take his own car and go without me because I was taking too long getting dressed. I couldn’t decide on my Day One outfit.
“A year ago, I never would have expected to be hearing these things coming from your mouth.”
Watches are No Longer a Men’s Club
My immersion into watches might seem curious, but the industry is rapidly changing in ways that are highly appealing. Yes, historically the watch world has been a men’s club. Purchases were done at jewelers, where someone would drop several months worth of mortgage payments. Watch options were limited to a handful of big boy brands, with guys buying just under 80% of the $75.8 billion market.
But that’s all shifting, fast. Instead of the handful of known names, there are now more than 500 watch companies worldwide, each doing their own thing in their own way. The emergence of independent and microbrands has been the most significant shift in the watch world, pretty much ever. It’s changed how we shop and what we buy.
Many of the newer brands sell directly to the consumer, avoiding the jewelry middleman.
It’s why going to a watch show is such a huge draw, attracting collectors from all over. It’s often the only opportunity for people to see the watches in person before they buy. These watches brands often have just a few employees, so you typically get to meet them at the events. It’s hard to not go fan-girl when you see these faces in person that you’ve been studying so carefully. You learn about their story and why they are pursuing a passion. For those of us still slaving away in corporate, it supports a dream, living vicariously through their passion and also being totally jealous while I sulk at my desk!
I’ve now attended 3 in-person shows put on by Windup: two in Dallas, where I live, and one in New York. Crowd sizes have been from 8,000 people to more than 15,000 in NYC. There are smaller meetups and VIP events hosted by specific brands, and others aligned around an affinity. If you’re interested, you can find your people, and your watches.
These watchmakers don’t need to sell tens of thousands of watches, rather a few hundred to the right people, so they can forgo huge marketing budgets. Eliminating tons of unnecessary costs has allowed new brands to emerge with less upfront capital, offer better price points and set trends in an industry they’re significantly shifting.
These moves have helped break watches out of the country club mold. Collecting is now much more open and appealing to a larger and more diverse audience, especially from those who would have previously poopahed such things.
Just look at me: I went from being an indifferent owner of one watch to someone starting their own small but mighty collection. In less than a year, I’ve filled a 6-box of watches and have another on the way.
No one is interested in Mark Zuckerberg wearing a $900K Greubel Forsey, or Travis Kelce sporting the $500K Rolex rainbow sapphire and diamond doozie. What’s interesting are people like English actor Idris Elba, wearing a $450 Brew Super Metric, or comedian Conan O’Brien, wearing an Echo/Neutra.
They represent true hobbyists, taking their time and carefully curating a collection, built on extensive research and refined personal preferences.
Prices range from a few hundred to several thousand dollars. You’re investing in a premium product without a gargantuan markup. The Manual estimates the price tag of an independent watch brand is 30 to 50 times lower than what you’d see at a jeweler. So a $10,000 Rolex might be $1,500 at a microbrand for the same movement and mechanical quality. It becomes easy to ask: what are you paying for? And why?
Microbrands are putting their dollars back into their watches, continuing to improve the quality of these timepieces, making them true investments.
Personally, I’m not fixated on the mechanics and the movements, unlike many of the men I’ve observed. Initially I was uncomfortable and felt behind in that space, like a poser who needed to catch up to hang with the guys. But then I asked myself: “why?” It’s not my thing and that’s ok. I care about how it looks and feels and wears.
I like jewelry-like watches that can make a statement and stand alone and be noticed. Or to still show up if my watch is surrounded by bangles. It has to be functional and work with my lifestyle. Over time, I’m learning what I really want in a watch: which is something that’s easy to set and forget. Working around to the right date can drive a woman bonkers and too many crowns are tiny, threatening to break a nail and ruin my manicure.
A watch needs to support my desire to be daring, touting my personal style and embracing my ability to wear pieces not historically marketed toward women. Think accessory, that’s also an investment; a statement piece — all wrapped around your wrist.
A woman with confidence doesn’t need their watch brand to tell the world their worth.
But don’t even get me started on the straps. That’s like 50 gazillion other options, offering an entirely different look for a watch face, just by swapping what’s around it. I’m not even in novice territory there.
And yes, the crowd is still mostly male but shifting. If you’re interested in meeting some men, watch shows are the place to go. Talk about taking care of all your business in one place: Retail Therapy and Dating in one stop. Consider it efficient!
I’ll be honest, there is no way in hell I thought watches were going to become a thing for me. It all started last year on Valentine’s Day. My partner gave me my first big-girl watch: a Nomos Tangente. Something totally unexpected. It had a personally engraved message on the back that really did me in. Then he told me he picked that piece because it “looked like me,” which might be the kindest thing anyone has ever said.
Are you into watches? Share your story of what sucked you in.